The 5 Wine Bar Le Marais You Can’t Miss in Paris
Le Marais is the one part of Paris where the wine bar never really had to reinvent itself. The 3rd and 4th
arrondissements kept their narrow streets when Haussmann flattened much of the rest of the city, and the
result is a quarter still built at the scale a wine list is drunk at — a counter, eight stools, a cellar in
the basement, and a street outside narrow enough that people stand in it with a glass. We went through every
wine bar, cave à manger and wine-led bistro with a Google Business listing across Le Marais and its immediate
edges — 60 of them in total — and weighted each one’s rating against how many people actually left it,
because a 4.9 from a thousand reviews and a 4.5 from twenty-three hundred are not making the same claim.
Five came out clearly ahead, and between them they cover most of what “wine bar” can mean in this city: an
independent caviste with a bar attached, a spiral-staircase bistro, a 120-year-old institution with a rock
‘n’ roll footnote, an all-day Les Halles fixture, and a vegetarian kitchen with a biodynamic list.
Divvino Marais, Rue Elzevir
The highest-rated name on this list, and the only one Google files as a liquor store rather than a
restaurant — which is the clue to what it actually is. Divvino is a caviste with
a bar attached, or in its own words “bien plus qu’une boutique,” much more than a shop. It stocks over 1,200
bottles bought straight from the growers with, as it puts it, “aucun intermédiaire, aucun compromis” — no
middlemen, no compromises — and leans hard toward natural and biodynamic producers, arranged by colour
(including orange) and by French region before the international shelves start. Founder Marina Giuberti came
to it through Michelin-starred kitchens and wine-led rooms across Europe, and it shows in how much of the
business is teaching rather than pouring: guided Wine Flights, formal tasting courses, cheese pairings. It
says it is built for “vrais amateurs,” people who want to understand what they are drinking. 4.9★ from
1,116 reviews at 16 Rue Elzevir, open daily from noon — to 10:00 PM Sunday through Wednesday, 11:00 PM
Thursday to Saturday. Phone 09 83 74 25 04.
Le Colimaçon, Rue Vieille du Temple
The most-reviewed room on this list by a clear margin, and the one that has been doing it longest in its
current form: Le Colimaçon has been on Rue Vieille du Temple since 1993. The name
means “the spiral staircase,” and it is not decoration — the staircase is the thing that connects the ground
floor to the two small dining rooms above it, and it is why the place feels like several tiny restaurants
stacked rather than one big one. The kitchen is traditional French, made in-house from market produce, with
escargots, rabbit and duck as the fixtures and a menu that turns over with the season; the house line is
“traditional flavours and modern preparation.” The cellar runs to serious Bordeaux — Château Bellegrave from
Pauillac among them — which puts it at the bottle-you-sit-down-with end of this list rather than the
glass-at-the-counter end. 4.7★ from 3,282 reviews at 44 Rue Vieille du Temple, dinner only Monday to
Saturday from 6:00 to 10:30 PM, plus a Sunday lunch service 12:30 to 2:30 PM.
Vins des Pyrénées, Rue Beautreillis
The oldest story here, and the one with the strangest footnote. Vins des
Pyrénées counts 120 years on Rue Beautreillis, in the Saint-Paul corner of the Marais, and Jim Morrison
— who died in the building a few doors up the same street — was a regular. It calls itself “une institution
parisienne” and furnishes accordingly: meubles chinés, thrifted pieces, a deliberately mismatched vintage
room rather than a designed one. The cooking is seasonal bistro work with the stated aim of “mettre en avant
les produits dans leur simplicité” — putting the produce forward plainly — with a chalkboard lunch special
and a cave behind it. It now sits under the Rétropolitaine umbrella, which programmes jazz nights, wine
workshops and Belle Époque cabaret into the space, so an evening here can turn into something other than
dinner. 4.5★ from 2,282 reviews, and the widest opening hours on this list bar one: 8:30 AM to midnight
every day, until 1:45 AM on Friday and Saturday. Phone 01 42 72 64 94.
Le Relais du Vin, Rue Saint-Denis
The one that sits just outside the Marais proper — 85 Rue Saint-Denis is in the 1st, over toward Les
Halles — and earns its place by being open when everything else has stopped.
Le Relais du Vin runs 7:00 AM to 2:00 AM, seven days a week, with happy hour
across the whole middle of the afternoon and evening. It is a wine bistro in the plainest sense: a rotating
plat du jour, “plats gourmands et faits maison” on the standing menu, and a cellar it presents simply as
“les bonnes bouteilles de nos producteurs” — the good bottles from our growers, bought direct. The room is
a regulars’ room, the kind where someone ends up at the piano, and it is the cheapest of the five on Google’s
own price banding. 4.6★ from 2,689 reviews. Phone 01 45 08 41 08.
Bonnard, Rue des Gravilliers
The outlier, and the most interesting pairing problem on the list.
Bonnard is a vegetarian bistronomy restaurant in the northern Marais — “une
cuisine généreuse et gourmande, 100% épicurienne et végétarienne” — in an intimate room it describes as a
refined setting of stone and velvet. What puts it here is the list: carefully chosen, built around
biodynamic growers, with Château Roubine in Provence, Domaine de la Renardière in the Jura, Domaine Buisson
in Burgundy and Domaine des Bruyères in the Rhône among the names, and picked specifically to work against
vegetables rather than against meat. That is a harder brief than it sounds, and it is why the wine here is
worth a detour even if the food is not the reason you came. Its own tagline: “c’est beau, c’est bon, c’est
Bonnard.” 4.7★ from 1,690 reviews at 18 Rue des Gravilliers, dinner 6:30 to 11:30 PM Monday to
Saturday, with a Saturday lunch 12:00 to 3:00 PM, closed Sunday. Phone 01 80 88 11 90.
All five, on the map
The interactive map has all 60 qualifying wine bars we found across Le Marais
and its edges, these five marked and numbered, and a button that hands the walking route between them
straight to Google Maps on your phone. Four of the five are within a fifteen-minute walk of each other; only
Le Relais du Vin sits meaningfully west of the rest.
Getting the most out of a wine crawl in Le Marais
This is a walking route, not a transit one — the Marais is small and the streets are the point — but
almost everything here depends on your phone working the moment you arrive, from checking whether Divvino’s
Wine Flights have space to reading a chalkboard menu through a camera translation. A local eSIM from
Airalo handles that without hunting for a French SIM on day one, and a
booked transfer from Welcome Pickups takes the guesswork out of CDG
or Orly into the 3rd at an hour when the RER is not appealing. Wine bars are also where the foreign
transaction fees stack up fastest — several glasses, several rounds, several cards — so a
Wise card or a euro account with N26 saves more
here than it does on a single restaurant bill. If the crawl is one evening inside a longer Paris trip, the
Marais is also museum territory: Tiqets covers skip-the-line entry to
the Musée Picasso and Carnavalet a few streets from these addresses. And if you would rather read a French
wine list properly than point at it, a few weeks of lessons on
italki before you travel goes further than any phrasebook — the vocabulary
is small and very specific.
Frequently Asked Questions
What’s the best wine bar in Le Marais?
By rating weighted against review volume, Divvino Marais leads at 4.9★ from 1,116 reviews, and it is
also the most literally a wine bar — an independent caviste with a bar attached and over 1,200 bottles bought
direct from growers. Le Colimaçon has almost three times the review base at 4.7★ from 3,282, but it is
a restaurant with a serious cellar rather than a place built around the glass.
Are these wine bars or restaurants?
Both, and the split matters when you book. Google’s own categories put Divvino as a liquor store, Le
Colimaçon, Vins des Pyrénées and Le Relais du Vin as French restaurants, and Bonnard as a vegetarian
restaurant. Only Divvino is somewhere you can reasonably turn up for a glass and a plate without a table;
the other four expect you to eat.
Which one is open latest?
Le Relais du Vin, by a distance — 7:00 AM to 2:00 AM, seven days a week. Vins des Pyrénées runs to
midnight most nights and 1:45 AM on Friday and Saturday. Le Colimaçon and Bonnard both stop serving before
midnight, and Bonnard is closed on Sundays.
Are they all actually in Le Marais?
Four of them are: Divvino and Bonnard in the 3rd, Le Colimaçon and Vins des Pyrénées in the 4th. Le Relais
du Vin is at 85 Rue Saint-Denis in the 1st, on the Les Halles side of the boundary — close enough to fold
into the same evening on foot, but it is not a Marais address and we would rather say so than stretch the
map.
Do I need to book?
For the sit-down rooms, yes — Le Colimaçon in particular is small, split across two upstairs dining
rooms, and dinner-only for six nights of the week. Divvino’s tastings and Wine Flights are structured
sessions rather than walk-in pours, so those need arranging in advance too. Le Relais du Vin, open from
breakfast to 2:00 AM, is the one you can treat as a drop-in.
- 1. Divvino Marais — 16 Rue Elzevir, 75003 Paris
- 2. Le Colimaçon — 44 Rue Vieille du Temple, 75004 Paris
- 3. Vins des Pyrénées — 25 Rue Beautreillis, 75004 Paris
- 4. Le Relais du Vin — 85 Rue St Denis, 75001 Paris
- 5. Bonnard — 18 Rue des Gravilliers, 75003 Paris